Material and care tips

Tips on leather quality, shoemaking techniques and care.

Shoemaking styles: Blake Stitch, Blake Rapid and Goodyear-Welted

1. Blake Stitch
The Blake stitch construction connects the sole directly to the upper leather with a single seam. This makes the shoe more flexible and lighter, but less water-resistant.

2. Blake Rapid Stitch
An additional midsole is sewn in here, which makes the shoe more stable and durable while still remaining flexible.

3. Goodyear Welted
The Goodyear Welted construction is one of the most durable and high-quality methods of shoemaking. A layer of cork is placed between the upper leather and the sole, joined with a welt seam. This construction makes the shoe durable and water-resistant. It also allows for easy resoling.

Different types of leather

1. What is calf leather?
Calfskin is softer and finer than cowhide and has a smooth, even surface. It is often used for luxury footwear, offering a combination of durability and elegance.

2. What is full grain leather?
Full grain leather is the highest quality leather. It is made from the top layer of the animal hide and retains all natural irregularities. It is extremely durable and develops a sophisticated patina over time.

3. What is suede?
Suede, also known as velour leather or rough leather, has a soft, velvety surface that comes from the underside of the animal hide. The suede used by RŌSHI is hydrophobic, meaning it is water-resistant and easier to care for than untreated rough leather. However, it is still susceptible to stains and requires special care to maintain its quality.

4. What is Pebblegrain leather?
Pebblegrain leather has a distinctive grained texture that makes it more resistant to scratches. It's ideal for everyday use and easy to care for.

5. What is nappa leather?
Nappa leather is a particularly soft and fine-grained leather, often made from calf or sheep leather. It feels supple and is often used for luxury products.

6. What is boxcalf leather?
Boxcalf leather is a smooth, fine calfskin characterized by its even grain and high durability. It is often used for high-quality shoes.

7. What is nubuck leather?
Nubuck leather is similar to suede, but has a finer, sanded surface derived from the top layer of the animal's hide. It's durable but requires a lot of maintenance.

8. What is Cordovan leather
Cordovan leather is a rare, particularly durable leather obtained from the subcutaneous skin of horses' backs. It is characterized by its characteristic luster, high durability, and a smooth, fine surface that develops a unique patina over time.

9. What is aniline leather?
Aniline leather is particularly high-quality and is treated only with transparent dyes, allowing the leather's natural grain to remain visible. It is very soft but more susceptible to stains and scratches.

10. What is semi-aniline leather?
Semi-aniline leather has a light protective layer that makes it more resistant to stains and wear, while largely preserving the natural leather look.

11. What is chrome-tanned leather?
Chrome-tanned leather is tanned with chromium salts, which accelerates the process and gives the leather a soft, supple texture. At RŌSHI, we use high-quality, professionally chrome-tanned leather from traditional, experienced tanneries that operate in an environmentally friendly manner. Chrome-tanned leather is durable and long-lasting.

12. What is chrome-free tanned leather?
- Vegetable tanned leather:
This leather is tanned with natural tanning agents such as bark and fruits, making it environmentally friendly and durable. It develops a characteristic patina over time.
- Synthetically tanned leather:
Synthetic tanning agents are used here. This leather is soft and skin-friendly, but may be less robust than vegetable-tanned leather.

A selection of our tanneries

At RŌSHI, we work with some of the most respected and traditional tanneries in Europe, known for their high quality and sustainability:

- Conceria Maryam: A family-run Italian tannery known for its high-quality vegetable-tanned leathers that develop a unique patina.

- Conceria Opera: A leading Italian tannery specializing in the production of fine calf and suede leather, synonymous with the highest quality.

- David Oehler: This renowned German tannery stands for first-class leather quality and decades of craftsmanship, especially in the field of suede leather.

- Richard Hoffmans: A traditional German tannery that is distinguished by its environmentally friendly processes and the production of luxurious leathers.

- Tanneries Haas: A French tannery recognized worldwide for its exceptional leather craftsmanship and sustainable production methods.

- Burel Factory: Burel is a traditional Portuguese spinning and weaving mill that weaves sustainable, high-quality wool textiles like our flannel fabrics from the wool of Portuguese sheep.

Sole types

1. Leather sole
Leather soles are classic, elegant, and particularly breathable. They offer excellent flexibility and adapt to the wearer, but are less slip-resistant and weather-resistant than rubber soles. They are ideal for formal occasions.

2. Leather sole with rubber profile
This sole combines the elegance and breathability of a leather sole with the added slip resistance and durability of a rubber insert in the front area. It's ideal for customers who appreciate the classic look of a leather sole but also require additional functionality in everyday life.

3. Crepe/rubber crepe sole
The crepe sole is made of natural rubber and, like the Lactae Hevea sole, is extracted from the sap of the Hevea Brasiliensis tree. It is soft and springy, making it particularly comfortable for everyday wear. It offers good shock absorption and slip resistance, but is less durable than other sole types, especially in wet weather.

4. Lactae Hevea sole
Lactae Hevea soles are made from 100% certified natural rubber and, thanks to their special manufacturing process in a small French factory that has remained unchanged for more than 30 years and is somewhat similar to the way cheese is made, offer a uniquely soft, springy and completely natural walking comfort.

5. Vibram Christy Morflex sole
The Vibram Christy Morflex sole is lightweight, flexible, and offers excellent comfort. It is often used in casual, more rugged shoes and boots (e.g., Red Wing boots) and provides good cushioning and excellent traction on a variety of surfaces.

6. Dainite sole
Manufactured in England by a small factory for over 100 years, the Dainite sole is made of robust rubber and features small, rounded nubs that provide excellent grip without compromising the shoe's flexibility. Ideal for everyday use, especially in wet or slippery conditions, it combines durability with a sophisticated appearance.

7. Command Sole
The Commando sole is made of thick rubber with a deep tread and is known for its durability and slip resistance. Commonly used in outdoor footwear, it is durable and provides excellent grip on uneven or slippery surfaces.

Care tips for leather and woven fabrics

1. Care of smooth leather and nappa leather
- Use a leather cream or wax regularly to keep the leather supple and protect it from moisture.
- Clean the leather with a damp cloth and let it dry before polishing.

2. Care of suede
- Brush the leather with a suede brush to remove dirt.
- Use a waterproofing spray to protect it from moisture and stains. Since the suede used in RŌSHI is already hydrophobic, it requires less maintenance to remain water-resistant.

3. Care of embossed leather (pebblegrain leather)
- Use leather cream or wax to keep the grain supple and protect it from moisture.
- Gently remove dirt with a brush to preserve the texture.

4. Care of Cordovan leather
- Apply leather grease regularly to maintain flexibility.
- Polish the leather with a soft cloth to maintain its shine.

5. Care of woven fabrics (flannel, loden, jeans, canvas)
- Remove dust and dirt with a soft brush or fabric roller.
- Use waterproofing agents to make the fabrics water-repellent.

Additional care tips

1. Shoe rotation
Wear each pair of shoes for a day or two in a row, then give them a break and switch to another pair. Depending on the weather and occasion, consider the style and material. For example, avoid wearing crepe soles in winter and high-quality leather shoes during heavy rain or snowfall.

2. Storage of leather shoes
Use wooden shoe trees to help retain shape and wick away moisture. Use the trees for only a few hours, no longer. Wear your shoes for a day or two in a row and then let them rest.

3. Water protection
Particularly sensitive leathers such as aniline or suede should be treated regularly with waterproofing spray. Spray the waterproofing spray onto the shoes approximately every 4-6 weeks from a distance of about 30 cm, taking care not to over-wet them.

4. Maintenance intervals
Care for your leather shoes approximately every 4-6 weeks if you use them regularly and as needed if you use them less frequently.

5. Basic care
For normal street dirt, you should brush your shoes or wipe them with a dry cotton or microfiber cloth, then freshen them up with the appropriate care product depending on the level of dirt and the material. You can get more information via the RŌSHI newsletter or on the blog.

4. Polishing and shine
Smooth leather benefits from regular polishing to maintain its shine. Use a soft brush or polishing cloth.

5. Resoling Goodyear Welted Shoes
Goodyear welted shoes can easily be resoled, which significantly extends their lifespan. It's best to choose a skilled shoemaker to resol your shoes for you.

If you'd like to learn more about the manufacturing and production of shoes and leather, shoe care, or environmental aspects, join the RŌSHI Club, follow our blog, follow our Instagram account, or send me a personal email. Thanks, Robin.